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November 29, 2012 Leave a comment Go to comments
  1. January 4, 2013 at 10:41


    I just rebuild my DAC. Made some layout and grounding improvements, but now the DAC starts faster than the Arduino is able to mute it, so there is a split second of full volume when powering it all en though the mute function is called first. Are you familiar with this problem?

    • BlgGear
      January 4, 2013 at 16:47

      I don’t think I’ve seen that. Let me check. However, I put the muting code as early as possible, so earlier than that is not possible 🙂

  2. chryses
    January 4, 2013 at 17:34

    I seem to remember reading a thread over at diyaudio that was concerned with a related issue – namely, building in some sort of protection so that if the Arduino doesn’t start up properly you don’t just have the DAC blasting at full volume. Are you using a line stage? If so, maybe use a solid state relay controlled by the Arduino that only powers on the line stage after the Arduino starts up and runs the muting code?

  3. January 4, 2013 at 19:00

    Yes, the muting code is put as early as possible, but it’s still not quick enough.
    I have tested t also with my own controller that has the Atmega644 and with another Arduino. With both the problem does simple not exist, so it must have something to do with that particular arduino.

    I used to have a relay between the transformer and the power supply for the exact same reason, but I took it out because the problem never occurred. Luckily I hooked it up to my integrated lm3875 amps instead of my Ncores. Maybe I’ll put the relay back where it was, just in case…

    • BlgGear
      January 5, 2013 at 19:01

      Hi Corpius. I tried power cycling both the DAC and Arduino at the same time and there is a split second where the volume is at full blast. The reason why I didn’t remember is because the DAC/amps always start up before the computer. I am using the “lowly” duemilanove which probably starts up slower than the 644. In theory, the DAC should startup muted if in s/w mode….

  4. January 6, 2013 at 10:31

    I had never encountered this problem before. Well the atmega644 starts fast enough. Besides that I’m using a power relay that is switched by the 644 to be able to have a standby function and a sleep timer. Having the the 644 controlled relay ensures that the DAC does not start first.

    Perhaps it is a good idea to add a warning to the code. Something like: In case of using a power amps directly connected to the DAC, make sure to start the DAC before powering the amps because of the possibility of a slit second where the volume is at full blast.

  5. David Quayle
    March 12, 2013 at 22:19

    I am trying to get my brain around how the code works, which is a serious mental challenge for me.

    With the Source settings, I assume those are chosen for each source (SPDIF1, SPDIF2 etc) (via the Rot Enc) once the source is selected & the setting are saved in EEPROM. Therefore when you first start the DAC (for the first time) the the settings are not set, so to speak.

    • Anonymous
      March 12, 2013 at 22:51

      Yes, because nothing has been saved in the eeprom. There is no fixed relation to the source names (which you can edit in the code) and the physical source. You can for example have two selections for the same physical source, each with different settings.

  6. David Quayle
    March 12, 2013 at 23:58

    I’m thinking I’ve coded a dogs breakfast, as I’m using an external relay (attached to the BIIISE IP-S input) to switch between DSD & SPDIF.

    Should I be doing this switching via the I2C interface to the BIIISE?

  7. David Quayle
    March 13, 2013 at 21:16

    Well I’m at wits end, I cannot get the Rotary Encoder to work no matter what I do, I cant even get the Rotary Encoders Selectpin to work, it’s only a switch!! how hard can it be!!. I have check, double checked, changed & double changed everything, hardware, software, you name it. It’s like the pin is not being seen as going LOW when I press the button in and it is linked to grnd.

    Any & all suggestions are welcome

  8. David Quayle
    March 14, 2013 at 00:19

    I’ve had a look around & I’m going to try wiring the switch differently to shown in this blog & see how I go.

  9. March 14, 2013 at 09:26
  10. David Quayle
    March 14, 2013 at 09:47

    Yes I have tried that. One question though, I assume the “0” in the following code is the interrupt number attachInterrupt(0, rotEncoder, CHANGE); I am using pin 19 as the other pins are taken by the screen & as far as I can find the interrupt number for 19 is 4.

    I’m in such a bad state I can’t even get the switch (press in) function on the rotary encoder to work. It’s probably something really stupid.

  11. March 14, 2013 at 12:48

    The “0” refers to digital pin 2 on the Arduino Uno. On the Arduino pin 2 and pin 4 can be used for the interrupts. Not sure to which pin “0” refers on the Mega.

  12. David Quayle
    March 14, 2013 at 21:38

    The Mega Interrupts are as shown below, so “0” is still Pin 2. I dont have access to Pin 2 so I am using 19 hence Interrupt “4”.

    I did get some action with the rotary encoder last nigh although it was sporadic, I’m beginning to think something else is causing the problems.

    External Interrupts: 2 (interrupt 0), 3 (interrupt 1), 18 (interrupt 5), 19 (interrupt 4), 20 (interrupt 3), and 21 (interrupt 2).

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